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ELECTRIC FENCE ADVICE

 

Fencing advice - Please email for any fencing advice CLIck here

basic fence components required if you have no existing fence

TO ELECTRIFY AN EXISTING FENCE

  • ENERGISER
  • LEAD SET
  • INSULATORS
  • WIRE/ROPE OR TAPE
  • EARTH KIT
  • TESTER (ADVISED)
  • LIGHTNING ARRESTOR (RECOMMENDED)
  • LEAD OUT CABLE (MAINS ENERGISERS ONLY)
  • GATE SET
  • WARNING SIGN

FOR POULTRY - GOATS - SHEEP OR TO PROTECT YOU GARDEN FROM RABBITS

  • ELECTRIC NETTING
  • ENERGISER
  • LEAD SET (BATTERY/SOLAR ENERGISERS)
  • LEAD OUT CABLE (MAINS ENERGISERS)
  • EARTH KIT
  • TESTER (ADVISED)
  • LIGHTNING ARRESTOR (RECOMMENDED)
  • WARNING SIGN

THE ENERGISER

THERE ARE SEVERAL OPTIONS available

  • BATTERY
  • SOLAR POWERED
  • MAINS

THE MODEL YOU NEED IS DEPENDANT ON LOCATION AND THE DISTANCE AND NUMBER OF LINES THAT YOU NEED TO POWER.

THE CONDITION OF THE FENCE IS ALSO A IMPORTANT FACTOR

A FENCE THAT COMES INTO CONTACT WITH LEAVES GRASS & SHRUBS WILL NEED MORE POWER THAN I FENCE THAT DOES NOT

lead sets

for battery and solar powered energisers - to connect energiser to fence

posts/stakes

if you do not have an exisisting fence you will need posts - these are available in plastic coating or metal. placed usually 5 metres apart the plastic posts do not need insulators you simply attach your tape or rope to the posts.

the plastic posts are available in white or green and are available in two heights standard and tall.

our metail pigtail posts are strong and have one built in insulator at the top you will need to purchase additional insulators if you require more than one line.

WIRE/ROPE & TAPE

tape is a popular choice and comes in varying widths - highly visible and affordable option.

rope - is strong and tangle free

wire is strong & aluminium wire is for very high conductivity

nearly all tape, rope and wire comes in 200 metre rolls

earth kit

Most fence problems are caused by poor grounding. Proper grounding is an absolute must if your system is to work correctly.

A ground rod should be copper, galvanized pipe or a steel rod driven 6 to 8 feet into permanently wet earth. The fence controller will work more efficiently if the ground rod is driven to a point where moisture is constant.

Never use an existing ground rod that is hooked up to other electrical systems or to a water pipe. To connect wire to a ground rod, use a ground clamp that is mechanically secured to the ground rod.

fence testers

a good fence tester is an important tool - to enable you to check to see if your fence is functioning correctly. there are three main types available

LIGHTNING ARRESTOR

for a very small price protect your energiser from lightning -your energiser is not covered under warranty for damage due to lightning see lighting arrestor

lead out cable

to connect your energiser to your fence and can be used to connect the lines on your fence - for mains energisers only. available in three lenghts

20metres - 50 metres - 100 metres

gate sets

to allow easy access to your fenced area without having to turn off your fence. there are several different options available for more information click here

warning signs

a good idea on any electric fence - these must be placed on any electric fence where there is near public access - then they must be every 50 metres

insulators

there are a variety of insulators avAILABLE ALL ARE DESIGNED TO ATTACH EITHER ROPE / WIRE / TAPE TO YOUR FENCE POSTS.

  • STANDARD SCREW IN INSULATORS - CAN BE SCREWD IN BY HAND
  • NAIL ON UNIVERSAL INSULATORS - TAPE OR ROPE
  • BOLT ON INSULATORS
  • OFFSET INSULATORS - TO KEEP ANY ANIMALS FROM DAMAGING /LEANING OVER FENCES

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON INSULATORS AVAILABLE CLICK HERE

ELECTRIC NETTING

ELECTRIC NETTING IS A SIMPLE EFFECTIVE WAY TO PROTECT AND CONTAIN - VERY EASY TO INSTALL THE NETTING COMES WITH BUILT IN POSTS - SO IT IS VERY EASY TO MOVE FOR MORE INFORMATION ON NETS AVAILABLE CLICK HERE

general information

Use an electric fence sign to identify the charged wire. Inform family members and neighbors, especially small children, about the location and operation of the electric fence. Instruct all applicable persons how to disconnect the controller in case of an emergency.

Never climb over an electric fence wire while it is carrying an electric charge.


Do not install an electric fence underneath transmission or power line &
Do not use more than one electric fence controller on the same fence.
Install the controller and the electric fence according to the installation and operating instructions.


Repair of the electric fence controller should be performed by an authorized center only. (Battery can be replaced by the user.)

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Solar Module Maintenance
The DO's and DON'TS for maintaining the solar module's efficiency:

DO--Check the controller and solar module as often as possible for proper operation.

DO--Clean the surface of the solar module when needed. Use a damp cloth, but do not use any abrasive cleaning agent or cleaning pad that might damage the module's glass.

DO--Cover the solar module with something dark in color when not in use for more than three days in order to prevent overcharging the battery.

DO--Remove any object that obstructs the sunlight from reaching the module.

DON'T--Use any means of charging the battery other than the solar module or a constant- potential-current-limited charger.

DON'T--Overcharge the battery. To use a battery charging system other than the solar module, the battery must be removed from the circuit.

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Selecting The Location:

Select a location that will allow the solar module to collect the maximum amount of sunlight that is available on a clear day. An ideal location would allow the module to point directly at the sun at noontime each day of the year.

As a general rule, modules used in the northern hemisphere should be faced due south (not magnetic south). Modules used in the southern hemisphere should be faced due north (not magnetic north). The location site should be free of any objects such as trees, that would block the sunlight from the solar module.
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Proper Grounding:

Most fence problems are caused by poor grounding. Proper grounding is an absolute must if your system is to work correctly.

A ground rod should be copper, galvanized pipe or a steel rod driven 6 to 8 feet into permanently wet earth. The fence controller will work more efficiently if the ground rod is driven to a point where moisture is constant.

Never use an existing ground rod that is hooked up to other electrical systems or to a water pipe. To connect wire to a ground rod, use a ground clamp that is mechanically secured to the ground rod.

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To Remove The Battery:


Remove the one screw that secures the top cover of the battery enclosure compartment.

Tag, mark or identify the 2 lead wires which are connected to the battery, then disconnect them. Polarity must be observed when connecting the replacement battery.

Handle battery with care. Keep battery away from fire or flame. Discard battery only in an accepted manner. Do not rupture case as battery contains corrosive acid.

The replacement battery should be of the same rating as the original battery.

Reverse battery removal instructions when installing a replacement battery.

See battery enclosure cover for more instructions.
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Typical Electric Fence Design:

The design is simple and usually consists of wood, steel or aluminum posts fitted with Fi-Shock insulators and threaded with a single strand of wire. Spacing between posts may vary at your discretion, but be sure fence is always taut and never allowed to sag excessively.
Rule of Thumb: space posts 12 to 25 feet apart.

The earth is half your fence so if your grounding rod is not satisfactory, you will have a poor working fence. For best results, drive a 6 to 8 foot steel rod, galvanized pipe or copper rod into the earth.

This grounding rod doesn't have to be next to the fencer, but can be located nearby, preferably in a low, wet spot. This assures better grounding.

In dry or sandy soil areas it may be necessary to run a ground wire just below the "hot" wire. This ensures proper "shock" if animal contacts both wires. In other words, some types of earth do not conduct electricity well and often single-line fences do not work because of poor grounding conditions.

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Fence Materials


Posts


Wood
Steel
Aluminum
Fiberglass
PVC Tubing


Insulators

Plastic
Porcelain
(use appropriate hardware with insulators)

Wire


Galvanized Steel
Aluminum
Plastic-Metallic Wire

Accessories


Gate Handle
Electric Fence Tester
Lightning Arrestor
Ground Clamp
Electric Fence Sign
Ground Rod


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Fence Maintenance:


Periodically inspect the fence line and remove vines, brush growth and fallen branches which will short out the fence.
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Troubleshooting Guide:


If the fence is not operating properly, check the fence line to make sure it is not touching your house, trees, shrubs, grass weeds or anything other than the plastic fence posts. These will all cause the fence to short out.

Check your connections to the controller to see that they are secure.

Be sure your fence and ground wires are tightened securely.

If you suspect there is no charge from the controller, perform the following test.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE ACTIVATED FENCE WIRE!

Use a commercial electric fence tester to check the output on the fence line while it is activated. If there is no output, remove the fence wire from the controller and check the output across the terminals with an electric fence tester. If the tester indicates output, the problem is with the fence. If the tester indicates no output, the problem is with the controller.

NOTE: A blinking indicator lamp shows output to be OK. If the lamp does not blink, remove the fence wire from the controller. Turn controller on. If lamp does blink, the problem is with the fence. If lamp does not blink, the problem is with the controller or battery.

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Fence Wire Recommendations


Size: 20 through 9 American wire gauge
Type: Smooth galvanized steel electric fence wire
Aluminum (conducts electricity 4 times better than steel).
Plastic/metallic wire (see wire manufacturer recommendation located on the wire package).
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Insulators:

Use standard Fi-Shock insulators on rod-type line support posts or on wooden posts. At stress points such as corners or the starting point, use Fi-Shock corner post insulators. Always insulate wooden posts. Do not staple wire directly to the post or you may have a problem with arcing.

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Two types of splicing can be used. One type shows the use of specially designed bolts that make splicing simple, fast and effective. The other type in can be made without the use of extra materials. Splice connectors may also be used.

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Insulated Wire:


For running under roads, under gates, etc. use insulated under ground or under gate type wire only. Use this application with PVC tubing if desired.
For jumping on three to four strand fences, use 12 1/2 gauge insulated under gate cable.


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Gates:


Gates can be constructed from a single "hot" wire line with the use of an insulated gate handle as shown in . A standard gate can also be used without interfering with the electric fence by running insulated cable underneath the ground as mentioned above. To prevent cattle from rubbing or pushing through a gate, a "hot" line can be mounted on the gate itself.

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Training:


Cattle, horses, hogs, etc. will learn to respect an electric fence system after some exposure to a "hot" wire. Set up a simple single line inside a set of pens or small traps and animals will soon learn what the wire means. Even hard-to-handle bulls respect electric fences. Training takes very little time and effort but it is a must if you want a completely successful fence program.


Location of Fence Controller:


The electric fence controller should be installed in a clean location where direct moisture and sunlight do not come into contact with the enclosure on a continuous basis. This location should be as close to the power source and the electric fence as possible. Even though the controller's enclosure is basically weatherproof, it is advisable to install it indoors or in a weatherproof housing. Be sure to install porcelain tube-type insulators (or equivalent) in the walls of buildings or housings where the fence wires feed through.

Never allow the fence wires to come into contact with objects which may conduct the electric fence "charge" to ground. Frequently inspect the area where the controller is installed and maintain it as a clean and dry environment.

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Typical Electric Fence Design:


The design is simple and usually consists of wood, steel or aluminum posts fitted with Fi-Shock insulators and threaded with a single strand of wire. Spacing between posts may vary at your discretion, but be sure the wire is always taut and never allowed to sag excessively. Rule of thumb; space posts 12 to 25 feet (3.7 to 7.6 m) apart.

The earth is half your fence -- so if your grounding rod is not satisfactory, you will have a poor working fence. For best results, drive a 6-foot (1.8 m) steel rod, galvanized pipe or copper rod into the earth. This grounding rod doesn't have to be next to the controller, but can be located nearby, preferably in a low, wet spot. This assures better grounding.

In dry or sandy soil areas it may be necessary to run a ground wire just below the "hot" wire. This ensures proper "shock" if animal contacts both wires. In other words, some types of earth do not conduct electricity well and often single-line fences do not work because of poor grounding conditions.


When an animal comes into contact with an electrically charged fence wire, the animal will feel the electric current because the electrical charge passes through the animal's body, then through the earth to the ground rod and then up the ground wire to the ground terminal of the controller. If the animal and the ground terminal of the controller are not sufficiently grounded, then the path of electric current cannot be completed and the animal will not feel the shock. Since earth is half of the electric fence circuit, it is very important to have a properly installed ground circuit. In areas where poor soil and earth grounding conditions exist, use the two-wire system Likewise, the fence wire must always be properly insulated and not allowed to come into contact with shrubs, tall grass and any other conductive objects on a continual basis. Otherwise, the electric charge from the fence wire will conduct to ground through weeds, itc. and the fence loses its "shocking" power.

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