ELECTRIC
FENCE ADVICE
Fencing advice - Please
email for any fencing advice CLIck here
basic fence components required if you
have no existing fence
TO ELECTRIFY AN EXISTING FENCE
- ENERGISER
- LEAD SET
- INSULATORS
- WIRE/ROPE OR TAPE
- EARTH KIT
- TESTER (ADVISED)
- LIGHTNING ARRESTOR (RECOMMENDED)
- LEAD OUT CABLE (MAINS ENERGISERS ONLY)
- GATE SET
- WARNING SIGN
FOR POULTRY - GOATS - SHEEP OR TO PROTECT YOU
GARDEN FROM RABBITS
- ELECTRIC NETTING
- ENERGISER
- LEAD SET (BATTERY/SOLAR ENERGISERS)
- LEAD OUT CABLE (MAINS ENERGISERS)
- EARTH KIT
- TESTER (ADVISED)
- LIGHTNING ARRESTOR (RECOMMENDED)
- WARNING SIGN
THE ENERGISER
THERE ARE SEVERAL OPTIONS available
- BATTERY
- SOLAR POWERED
- MAINS
THE MODEL YOU NEED IS DEPENDANT ON LOCATION
AND THE DISTANCE AND NUMBER OF LINES THAT YOU NEED TO POWER.
THE CONDITION OF THE FENCE IS ALSO A IMPORTANT
FACTOR
A FENCE THAT COMES INTO CONTACT WITH LEAVES
GRASS & SHRUBS WILL NEED MORE POWER THAN I FENCE THAT DOES
NOT
lead sets
for battery and solar powered energisers - to
connect energiser to fence
posts/stakes
if you do not have an exisisting fence you will
need posts - these are available in plastic coating or metal.
placed usually 5 metres apart the plastic posts do not need insulators
you simply attach your tape or rope to the posts.
the plastic posts are available in white or
green and are available in two heights standard and tall.
our metail pigtail posts are strong and have
one built in insulator at the top you will need to purchase additional
insulators if you require more than one line.
WIRE/ROPE & TAPE
tape is a popular choice and comes in varying
widths - highly visible and affordable option.
rope - is strong and tangle free
wire is strong & aluminium wire is for very
high conductivity
nearly all tape, rope and wire comes in 200
metre rolls
earth kit
Most fence problems are caused by poor grounding.
Proper grounding is an absolute must if your system is to work
correctly.
A ground rod should be copper, galvanized pipe
or a steel rod driven 6 to 8 feet into permanently wet earth.
The fence controller will work more efficiently if the ground
rod is driven to a point where moisture is constant.
Never use an existing ground rod that is hooked
up to other electrical systems or to a water pipe. To connect
wire to a ground rod, use a ground clamp that is mechanically
secured to the ground rod.
fence
testers
a good fence tester is an important tool - to
enable you to check to see if your fence is functioning correctly.
there are three main types available
LIGHTNING ARRESTOR
for a very small price protect your energiser
from lightning -your energiser is not covered under warranty for
damage due to lightning see lighting
arrestor
lead out cable
to connect your energiser to your fence and
can be used to connect the lines on your fence - for mains energisers
only. available in three lenghts
20metres -
50 metres - 100 metres
gate sets
to allow easy access to your fenced area without
having to turn off your fence. there are several different options
available for more information click here
warning signs
a good idea on any electric fence - these must
be placed on any electric fence where there is near public
access - then they must be every 50 metres
insulators
there are a variety of insulators avAILABLE
ALL ARE DESIGNED TO ATTACH EITHER ROPE / WIRE / TAPE TO YOUR FENCE
POSTS.
- STANDARD SCREW IN INSULATORS - CAN BE SCREWD
IN BY HAND
- NAIL ON UNIVERSAL INSULATORS - TAPE OR ROPE
- BOLT ON INSULATORS
- OFFSET INSULATORS - TO KEEP ANY ANIMALS FROM
DAMAGING /LEANING OVER FENCES
FOR MORE INFORMATION
ON INSULATORS AVAILABLE CLICK HERE
ELECTRIC NETTING
ELECTRIC NETTING IS A SIMPLE EFFECTIVE WAY TO
PROTECT AND CONTAIN - VERY EASY TO INSTALL THE NETTING COMES WITH
BUILT IN POSTS - SO IT IS VERY EASY TO MOVE FOR MORE INFORMATION
ON NETS AVAILABLE CLICK HERE
general information
Use an electric fence sign to identify the charged
wire. Inform family members and neighbors, especially small children,
about the location and operation of the electric fence. Instruct
all applicable persons how to disconnect the controller in case
of an emergency.
Never climb over an electric fence wire while
it is carrying an electric charge.
Do not install an electric fence underneath transmission or power
line &
Do not use more than one electric fence controller on the same
fence.
Install the controller and the electric fence according to the
installation and operating instructions.
Repair of the electric fence controller should be performed by
an authorized center only. (Battery can be replaced by the user.)
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Solar Module Maintenance
The DO's and DON'TS for maintaining the solar module's efficiency:
DO--Check the controller and solar module as
often as possible for proper operation.
DO--Clean the surface of the solar module when
needed. Use a damp cloth, but do not use any abrasive cleaning
agent or cleaning pad that might damage the module's glass.
DO--Cover the solar module with something dark
in color when not in use for more than three days in order to
prevent overcharging the battery.
DO--Remove any object that obstructs the sunlight
from reaching the module.
DON'T--Use any means of charging the battery
other than the solar module or a constant- potential-current-limited
charger.
DON'T--Overcharge the battery. To use a battery
charging system other than the solar module, the battery must
be removed from the circuit.
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Selecting The Location:
Select a location that will allow the solar
module to collect the maximum amount of sunlight that is available
on a clear day. An ideal location would allow the module to point
directly at the sun at noontime each day of the year.
As a general rule, modules used in the northern
hemisphere should be faced due south (not magnetic south). Modules
used in the southern hemisphere should be faced due north (not
magnetic north). The location site should be free of any objects
such as trees, that would block the sunlight from the solar module.
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Proper Grounding:
Most fence problems are caused by poor grounding.
Proper grounding is an absolute must if your system is to work
correctly.
A ground rod should be copper, galvanized pipe
or a steel rod driven 6 to 8 feet into permanently wet earth.
The fence controller will work more efficiently if the ground
rod is driven to a point where moisture is constant.
Never use an existing ground rod that is hooked
up to other electrical systems or to a water pipe. To connect
wire to a ground rod, use a ground clamp that is mechanically
secured to the ground rod.
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To Remove The Battery:
Remove the one screw that secures the top cover of the battery
enclosure compartment.
Tag, mark or identify the 2 lead wires which
are connected to the battery, then disconnect them. Polarity must
be observed when connecting the replacement battery.
Handle battery with care. Keep battery away
from fire or flame. Discard battery only in an accepted manner.
Do not rupture case as battery contains corrosive acid.
The replacement battery should be of the same
rating as the original battery.
Reverse battery removal instructions when installing
a replacement battery.
See battery enclosure cover for more instructions.
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Typical Electric Fence Design:
The design is simple and usually consists of
wood, steel or aluminum posts fitted with Fi-Shock insulators
and threaded with a single strand of wire. Spacing between posts
may vary at your discretion, but be sure fence is always taut
and never allowed to sag excessively.
Rule of Thumb: space posts 12 to 25 feet apart.
The earth is half your fence so if your grounding
rod is not satisfactory, you will have a poor working fence. For
best results, drive a 6 to 8 foot steel rod, galvanized pipe or
copper rod into the earth.
This grounding rod doesn't have to be next
to the fencer, but can be located nearby, preferably in a low,
wet spot. This assures better grounding.
In dry or sandy soil areas it may be necessary
to run a ground wire just below the "hot" wire. This
ensures proper "shock" if animal contacts both wires.
In other words, some types of earth do not conduct electricity
well and often single-line fences do not work because of poor
grounding conditions.
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Fence Materials
Posts
Wood
Steel
Aluminum
Fiberglass
PVC Tubing
Insulators
Plastic
Porcelain
(use appropriate hardware with insulators)
Wire
Galvanized Steel
Aluminum
Plastic-Metallic Wire
Accessories
Gate Handle
Electric Fence Tester
Lightning Arrestor
Ground Clamp
Electric Fence Sign
Ground Rod
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Fence Maintenance:
Periodically inspect the fence line and remove vines, brush growth
and fallen branches which will short out the fence.
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Troubleshooting Guide:
If the fence is not operating properly, check the fence line to
make sure it is not touching your house, trees, shrubs, grass
weeds or anything other than the plastic fence posts. These will
all cause the fence to short out.
Check your connections to the controller to
see that they are secure.
Be sure your fence and ground wires are tightened
securely.
If you suspect there is no charge from the controller,
perform the following test.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE ACTIVATED FENCE WIRE!
Use a commercial electric fence tester to check
the output on the fence line while it is activated. If there is
no output, remove the fence wire from the controller and check
the output across the terminals with an electric fence tester.
If the tester indicates output, the problem is with the fence.
If the tester indicates no output, the problem is with the controller.
NOTE: A blinking indicator lamp shows output
to be OK. If the lamp does not blink, remove the fence wire from
the controller. Turn controller on. If lamp does blink, the problem
is with the fence. If lamp does not blink, the problem is with
the controller or battery.
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Fence Wire Recommendations
Size: 20 through 9 American wire gauge
Type: Smooth galvanized steel electric fence wire
Aluminum (conducts electricity 4 times better than steel).
Plastic/metallic wire (see wire manufacturer recommendation located
on the wire package).
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Insulators:
Use standard Fi-Shock insulators on rod-type
line support posts or on wooden posts. At stress points such as
corners or the starting point, use Fi-Shock corner post insulators.
Always insulate wooden posts. Do not staple wire directly to the
post or you may have a problem with arcing.
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Two types of splicing can be used. One type
shows the use of specially designed bolts that make splicing simple,
fast and effective. The other type in can be made without the
use of extra materials. Splice connectors may also be used.
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Insulated Wire:
For running under roads, under gates, etc. use insulated under
ground or under gate type wire only. Use this application with
PVC tubing if desired.
For jumping on three to four strand fences, use 12 1/2 gauge insulated
under gate cable.
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Gates:
Gates can be constructed from a single "hot" wire line
with the use of an insulated gate handle as shown in . A standard
gate can also be used without interfering with the electric fence
by running insulated cable underneath the ground as mentioned
above. To prevent cattle from rubbing or pushing through a gate,
a "hot" line can be mounted on the gate itself.
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Training:
Cattle, horses, hogs, etc. will learn to respect an electric fence
system after some exposure to a "hot" wire. Set up a
simple single line inside a set of pens or small traps and animals
will soon learn what the wire means. Even hard-to-handle bulls
respect electric fences. Training takes very little time and effort
but it is a must if you want a completely successful fence program.
Location of Fence Controller:
The electric fence controller should be installed in a clean location
where direct moisture and sunlight do not come into contact with
the enclosure on a continuous basis. This location should be as
close to the power source and the electric fence as possible.
Even though the controller's enclosure is basically weatherproof,
it is advisable to install it indoors or in a weatherproof housing.
Be sure to install porcelain tube-type insulators (or equivalent)
in the walls of buildings or housings where the fence wires feed
through.
Never allow the fence wires to come into contact
with objects which may conduct the electric fence "charge"
to ground. Frequently inspect the area where the controller is
installed and maintain it as a clean and dry environment.
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Typical Electric Fence Design:
The design is simple and usually consists of wood, steel or aluminum
posts fitted with Fi-Shock insulators and threaded with a single
strand of wire. Spacing between posts may vary at your discretion,
but be sure the wire is always taut and never allowed to sag excessively.
Rule of thumb; space posts 12 to 25 feet (3.7 to 7.6 m) apart.
The earth is half your fence -- so if your grounding
rod is not satisfactory, you will have a poor working fence. For
best results, drive a 6-foot (1.8 m) steel rod, galvanized pipe
or copper rod into the earth. This grounding rod doesn't have
to be next to the controller, but can be located nearby, preferably
in a low, wet spot. This assures better grounding.
In dry or sandy soil areas it may be necessary
to run a ground wire just below the "hot" wire. This
ensures proper "shock" if animal contacts both wires.
In other words, some types of earth do not conduct electricity
well and often single-line fences do not work because of poor
grounding conditions.
When an animal comes into contact with an electrically charged
fence wire, the animal will feel the electric current because
the electrical charge passes through the animal's body, then through
the earth to the ground rod and then up the ground wire to the
ground terminal of the controller. If the animal and the ground
terminal of the controller are not sufficiently grounded, then
the path of electric current cannot be completed and the animal
will not feel the shock. Since earth is half of the electric fence
circuit, it is very important to have a properly installed ground
circuit. In areas where poor soil and earth grounding conditions
exist, use the two-wire system Likewise, the fence wire must always
be properly insulated and not allowed to come into contact with
shrubs, tall grass and any other conductive objects on a continual
basis. Otherwise, the electric charge from the fence wire will
conduct to ground through weeds, itc. and the fence loses its
"shocking" power.
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